If you've been with me on Instagram for a minute, you've probably noticed that I frequently direct followers to my Maker FAQ page. That's because I don't generally respond to DM's from newbies who have questions about the craft or the business of stained glass. (The answers are generally complicated, lead to more questions, and are more time consuming to field than I'm able to budget for). It's one of very few work boundaries I've set for myself, and it's maybe the only one that I'm half-decent at respecting. So I probably won't respond to your comment or your DM about how to get smooth solder lines, but I can still be of some assistance here.
My number one suggestion for getting smoother solder lines is to practice, and to do so consciously. What I mean is to make a piece of work with the distinct purpose of improving your soldering skills. Don't worry about color theory or originality, though tight fitting cuts will only help you here. Still, focus primarily on the act of soldering this piece rather than just assuming that you'll get better with each new project.
A huge part of making stained glass is critical thinking--about your patterns and your process. If you aren't actively considering about works for you, you may not see progress as quickly as you'd like. Take it slow and work on that piece until you're certain that you're better at soldering than you were when you started. Then consider doing it all over again. Just don't be too precious--your lines will never be perfect, just as no handmade goods are.
To make this all a little easier--I'm providing you with a pattern. It's designed with the following aspects in mind.
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It has several lines of varied length. Longer lines can be tougher when it comes to getting a consistently smooth bead of of solder, so you'll have the opportunity to practice that here.
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It has one curved line that you have the option of removing. Soldering is a dynamic process, so you'll want to practice moving your wrist/arms/hands as you carry a bead across that line. If that's too much for you right now, don't bother with it. Simply eliminate that line to combine pieces 7 & 8.
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It has many different intersections where 2 or more lines meet. Getting these parts smooth without disturbing existing solder lines can sometimes be a challenge, so you have several to work with.
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The border has 3 straight edges. You'll get to practice creating a nice beam along these edges. There's also one curved edge for added difficulty. If you choose to add hobby came to the border, simply don't foil these edges. Just attach the inner lines to the outer border.
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The pieces are numbered and underlined. I do this when I make my own patterns so I don't confuse pieces, and so I always know which end is up.
I've also provided an annotated guide below with some questions to help you to actively consider what the solder is doing while you are working on it, that way you can keep it in mind down the line and apply it to much more interesting projects.
These green lines are going to be some of easiest, but they will get tougher to keep smooth as they get longer. Try dotting the lines with drops of solder, then dragging the iron to connect them. Try another line where you hold your coil of solder to the tip of your iron. Does either feel more natural? Go with it!
How fast are you moving the iron? What happens when you slow down in a specific area? What happens if you speed up? Note what you like best.
This red line is totally optional. If you don't think you can handle cutting two curved pieces and soldering one curved line, simply eliminate it.
If you keep the line, do you prefer to pivot your wrists or do you want to move your whole arm or torso? Do you need to hold the iron in any particular way so that it's comfortable as you turn corners or change directions? Take note.
The yellow lines are some of your easier intersections, though they still might give you trouble. Do you prefer to complete one whole line before starting the next, and dragging it across the meeting point? Do you prefer to start at the center point and work your way outward? What happens when you trace an X back and forth?
The dark blue area is going to be one of the toughest and messiest areas of the whole piece because so many lines intersect here. What do you notice about how the solder clumps. Is there any way to avoid this? Is there anything decorative you could try to make the clumps more appealing? What would happen to the intersection if you added more lines? Moved or removed a few?
NOTE: People tend to keep their soldering iron on areas like this the longest in an attempt to get a smoother finish. Keep in mind that there are several thin pieces of glass near this intersection, and thin pieces are more likely to suffer heat crack.
The purple edges can be beaded or finished with hobby came. If you're choosing to bead them, don't simply drag your iron around the edge. (This is called tinning, and it doesn't provide as nice a finish or sound a structure.). Build up a rounded bead of solder just like you did the other lines. How do you need to hold the piece? Is there something that you can use to level it? How does the solder move? Is it easier to work in small areas or in large ones?
The light blue rounded edge may be the toughest part to solder. How are you holding the piece so that you don't run the risk of dripping solder on your hands? Do you need to move the piece as you work on it? How does the solder move and flow, and what can you do to prevent it from running off the edge?
And, or course--here are some other things to keep in mind:
-You want to ensure that you have a solid rounded bead. If you see sharp or pointed bits, it could be because your soldering iron is too hot or too cool. Adjust it so that you can fix the sharp parts. (They could cut you and introduce lead into your bloodstream.)
-Is your solder bubbling and popping? Try using less flux. Is your solder struggling to stick to the copper foil? Try more flux.
-If glass pieces don't fit together well, any gaps will be filled with solder. This means your lines will look chonky.
-If your copper foil isn't centered over the edge of the glass when you apply it, your lead lines might fluctuate in width. If it isn't burnished well or trimmed, this could also result in wobbly solder.
If you want to make and sell this pattern, neat! (I truly don't care.) If you want to share it on Instagram--just credit me. If you found any of this helpful, consider tipping me via Venmo. I'm @pizzadonkey on there too.