Maker FAQ
Q - How did you learn to do stained glass?
A - I’m completely self taught. I learned mostly through trial and error. I don’t recommend that. I occasionally consulted websites, YouTube, and books before I felt comfortable enough to start asking others for help. There are countless Instagram accounts and individuals on Instagram who will be glad to answer questions if you can’t take a class. Anyone at your local glass supplier will likely be a great resource for you.
Q - What method(s) do you use for finishing your pieces?
A - I use the copper foil method but use U-came to finish the borders of my pieces. I don’t have experience making leaded panels.
Q - How do you make/find your patterns.
A - I draw most of my patterns in a program called Procreate for iPad so that I can compare multiple versions of a piece, and so I can easily swap out colors to see what looks best. Still, I finish a fair amount of my patterns pencil and paper, making final edits along the way.
If you don’t feel comfortable making your own patterns, there are plenty of free patterns/books of patterns out there. If you decide to go this route, please note whether or not the maker allows for resale of items made using their designs. I do not sell any of my patterns and do not allow replications of my work, even for personal use.
Please, do not replicate pieces that you see on Pinterest or Instagram (etc.). You will more than likely be stepping on the toes of an independent artist, and may be subject to legal action for Intellectual Property (IP) infringement.
Q - What do you use to cut your glass?
A - I use a Toyo brand glass cutter, generally a pistol grip. There are many other brands and styles of glass cutter, this is just my preference. I’ve not yet used a ringsaw; I hear that they are great but they are certainly not necessary.
Q - What do you use to grind your glass?
A - I use a StudioPro grinder and have a number of different sized grinder bits that I swap out according to my needs. It’s a simple machine but I’ve used it for several years with no problem.
Q - What soldering iron do you use?
A - I use a Hakko FX600 soldering iron. It has a temperature dial which is appreciated but not necessary. In the past I’ve used a Weller brand Iron that worked well for years.
Q - How do you get your patina so black.
A - Make sure your piece is well cleaned. Use flux remover/dish soap/super fine steel wool/magic erasers, and plenty of water to rinse away any of the chemical, otherwise the patina will not apply evenly.
I don’t have much experience with copper patina, so I cannot advise as to its use.
Q - What polish do you use?
A - I use whatever polish is available at my local glass shop. I have no brand allegiance. If you’re in a bind, you can use car wax to polish your piece.
Q - How do you get your pieces to fit so well? How do you get your solder seams so smooth? Etc.
A - Practice! It’s not the fun answer but it’s the best advice I can offer. The better you design your piece, the easier each next step will be. Clean cuts will make grinding less laborious. Well-ground pieces will make it easier to foil, and foiled pieces that fit together well will result in cleaner solder lines. Each of the many steps requires A LOT of practice. You’ll improve eventually.
Q - What paint do you use?
A - There are so many options and you should use whichever works best for you. If you have a kiln, use kiln-fire paints. Sign painting enamels (1 Shot, Alphanamel, etc.) and craft paints (Pebeo, etc.) all work but have their own pro’s and con’s, so I suggest trying several.
Q - What do you use on the borders of your pieces?
A - I finish all of my pieces with U-came. I always have a number of different sizes available and I choose that which best fits my piece.
Q - Where do you buy your glass?
A - I shop at a number of different stores in Southern California. I occasionally buy glass online. I always recommend buying in person if possible, as glass doesn’t always appear as it looks in photos, and even a single sheet can vary greatly in terms of color, texture, etc. If you buy online, consider AnythingInStainedGlass or Delphi. Most brands also have their own webstores.
Q - What glass do you use?
A - I use all different types and brands of glass, but a significant amount of my stock is from Bullseye Glass. In particular, I use a lot of their Opalescent glass.
Q - What safety precautions should I keep in mind?
A - Wear safety glasses when cutting/grinding glass. Wear gloves when dealing with chemicals. Work in a well-ventilated area and consider investing in a smoke absorber/fume mask for when you solder. Make sure your grinder has plenty of water so that it doesn’t create glass dust.
Q - How should I set up my studio?
A - This all depends upon your space and preferences. I recommend working for some time as a hobbyist before you concern yourself with a professional setup.
Q - How should I set up my webstore?
A - Truly, I’m not the best person to ask about this. I have some experience and plenty of opinions, but I am by no means a business expert.
Q - How should I price my goods?
A - There are too many variables to consider for me to offer a blanket answer. Consider your time spent, material costs, non-material costs, other sellers in the market, your experience, the number of pieces, the difficulty of the cuts, etc. Don’t take advantage of your customers because you work in a niche medium, but don’t intentionally undercut other sellers and skew the market as a result.
Q - Tips and Tricks for Beginners?
A - Spend the time and energy developing your unique voice. Don’t make things just because you see a trend emerging--make something because it speaks to your techniques and your style. Standing out is better. Make friends with other glass artists so you have a community to support you. Don’t steal ideas or patterns. Take it slow--don’t rush into selling for the sake of selling. Prioritize a piece’s stability integrity above all else.